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Staff Picks
Wines | Staff Picks | Emerging Power: Portugal
 We’re occasionally teased about our susceptibility to the ‘new-best-friend’ syndrome when it comes to wine. In that we’re quick to fall in love if the right bottle comes along, we’re guilty as charged. What’s the right wine? Simple, one that, in the course of tasting through hundreds of wines, sticks out strikingly on account of its superior quality, fidelity to the region from which it comes and, yes, a pretty sharp price point. If a given wine meets these three criteria, it becomes a ‘favorite’ and we’ll not only recommend it enthusiastically, but often regularly take it home for ourselves. Of course, over time we adduce quite a number of ‘favorite,’ so in compiling the list below we’ve set a few additional restrictions, namely: 1) it must be readily available and in some quantity (regrettably DRC won’t make the cut, then) 2) it must be reasonably priced, comfortably under $30/bottle and, finally 3) it must, bang for the buck, be best in show relative to its peers.
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Steve’s picks: |
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J.M. Boillot Montagny 1er Cru 2006
I’ve admired the wines of Boillot for years, but his 2005s were essentially perfect. Coming on the heals of such a strong vintage, I feared the ‘06s couldn’t possibly measure up. All I can say is that the first sip quickly disabused me of such wrong thinks and served as a richly deserved and stinging rebuke. Whatever’s in the water chez Boillot must be pretty potent stuff because this guy has looked into the heart of Chardonnay, discerned its essence and can now shape it according to his will. Man alive, this is good wine! With gorgeous notions of apple, bosch pear and almond cream, and accented by a deft touch of subtle and very appealing oak, this superb bottle should be mandatory tasting form anyone considering working with this varietal. And believe me, roasted chicken has no better friend than this bottle.
$26.99/per 750 ml |
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Avelada ‘Follies’ Touriga Nacional 2005
For some time now I’ve been a fan of the wines of Spain. But now, it seems abundantly clear, Portugal is catching up at breakneck speed. If Avelada’s ‘Follies’ is any indication of things to come, then future days will be happy ones indeed. Possessed of rich, black fruit notes, room filling aromas of roasted herbs and white pepper accents this wine is not merely good, interesting and complex but, additionally, downright yummy. Yes, dammit, I said YUMMY! It sells for a song to boot. Who can argue with that?
$14.99/per 750 ml |
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Elliots Picks: |
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Tres Picos Garnacha 2006
While some loot to make each wine drinking experience an ‘experience,’ I find the most enjoyment in the simple please of matching the right wine with whatever dish I’m preparing. And beyond this I want it at a reasonable price so that I’m not emptying my wallet with each dinner. For these reasons, I love Tres Picos’ Garnacha. A truly delicious wine made from 100% Grenache, this little gem bursts at the seams with soft, lush red berry fruit and a lovely spiciness. It also matches with more foods than I can shake a stick at, everything from grilled salmon to chicken to steak.
$14.99/per 750 ml |
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Grosjean Petite Arvine 2006
Don’t let the label fool you. It make look French, but it’s actually from Italy’s tiny Vallee d’Oaste region. The winery is situated at the base of the Alps, with a very picturesque view of the Matterhorn in the background. In such a setting an oddball but decidedly beautiful grape variety known as Petite Arvine really comes into its own. This particular wine is about as high toned, focused and precise as one could hope for. Exotic peach and pear notes predominate in the foreground, anise accents in the background. Lithe and possessing a nearly electric focus and finish, this is just a beautiful bottle. While there are a thousand potential pairings for this wine, I thought it went especially well with grilled swordfish.
$27.99/per 750 ml |
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Talyor’s picks |
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Paso Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Francophile that I am, I never in a million years would have predicted that I would be bringing home California Cabernet to drink. But as I tasted and drank this Cab, an epiphanal wave crashed over me: Cali Cab can be good, quite good, astonishingly good. This little number is pack–and I mean packed–with black fruit notes ranging from dark currants to cassis to black cherries. Smooth and silky but polished and balanced, this wine reminds me of a boxer with the grace of a ballerina.
$14.99/per 750 ml |
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Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2006
South Africa holds a special place in my heart in that I fell in love with wine over a glass of Pinotage. My passion for this business is well documented as I have professed by early South African connection. Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc does everything to simply reinforce my love of South African wines. More complex than most New Zealand Sauvies, it delivers a heady nose of tropical fruit, pink grapefruit and a suggestion of freshly cut grass. Delightful!
$22.99/per 750 ml |
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Michael’s picks: |
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Domaine de Belair Pouilly Fume 2005
Racy is the first and, very likely, last word on this Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire valley.
Vivacious and Lively also come to mind, but they’ll be somewhere in the middle. This is certainly not your everyday garden variety Pouilly Fume. The citrus fruit notes are accented by a pronounced mineral undertones and lovely, snappy acidity. Just behind the surface lingers a burst of granny smith apples and wisps of straw.
$19.99/per 750 ml |
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Domaine les Ondines Vacqueyras 2005
Vacqueyras is a fairly new appellation, only receiving recognition in 1995. By AOC rules it requires the use of at least 50% Grenache. This particular example uses a much higher percentage of Grenache and shows a dense and rich cherry fruit notes along with notions of black licorice, sage, thyme and lavender. This is bottle is absolutely smokin’ now, but should age and improve over the next 5 years or so.
$17.99/per 750 ml |
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Donald’s Pick: |
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Quinta das Baceladas 2004
The Baceladas is a big and brash example of the new style wines emanating from Portugal these days. It packs in a ton of fruit that is simultaneously smooth, ripe and plush. While it’s Portuguese, it will remind many a palate of a succulent California Cabernet. It drinks like a dream.
$16.99/per 750 ml |
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